Hair Colouring

A strand test is one of the most important steps before beginning a hair colour or lightening process. It will help determine specifics such as processing times, possible results and ensures you are happy before proceeding. If you don't get the results you were looking for and can't figure out why, please contact us sales@sinister.co.nz before you continue so we can help.

Strand Test:
1. Snip a few hairs from the back of your head where it won't be noticed.
2. Secure the hair using foil.
3. Leave dye or bleach on the hair for around 30mins and then rinse as normal.
4. Examine the strands carefully to check for any damage or colour inconsistency. To check the level of damage pull a single hair, if it breaks easily, it is damaged and not recommended to bleach.
5. If you are happy with the results you can proceed with using the product on your hair.

Even though grey hair is light in colour, it can be very resistant and often needs to be pre-lightened or otherwise processed in order for hair colours to work best. Our darker colours may tint grey hair and eventually fade to a nice pastel. Our lighter colours may add a nice hue of colour. Results will vary based on the natural porosity and shade of your hair ... always do a test strand before proceeding. We recommend using heat from a blow dryer during the processing time. 

The best results for semi-permanent 'direct dyes' are always achieved on bleached hair. Bleaching does two things, it allows the hair to be lightened to an optimum level for the chosen hair colour and it makes the hair porous which is what these dyes need so it can grab onto the hair. Even natural blonde may require bleaching to become porous just as any other hair colour does.

What are the best products to lighten hair? The simple answer is bleach, a bleach powder mixed with hydrogen peroxide developer cream. Note: supermarket blonde tint/dye is NOT bleach and works differently.

What to expect when direct dyes are applied to virgin hair? Results will vary according to hair texture and colour and the end result can be no colour change to a tint of colour. Natural hair is smooth and not very porous/absorbent so when direct dyes are applied the dye molecules slide off easily when the hair is rinsed or washed. Only hair that is somewhat porous may hold onto some of the colour but it will fade a lot faster than it would on pre-lightened hair. 

Can I remove permanent black dye with bleach kits? No. Bleach kits aren't designed to remove black hair dye. 

Can I colour grey hair? Even though grey hair is light in colour, it can be very resistant and often needs to be pre-lightened or otherwise processed in order for hair colours to work best. Our darker colours may tint grey hair and eventually fade to a nice pastel. Our lighter colours may add a nice hue of colour. Results will vary based on the natural porosity and shade of your hair ... always do a test strand before proceeding. We recommend using heat from a blow dryer during the processing time. 

BLEACH > RINSE / SHAMPOO > DRY > DYE > RINSE IN COOL WATER. For best results do it all on the same day!

Bleach: Bleach hair to the optimum level for the colour you are using. 
Rinse / Shampoo: Rinse thoroughly until most of the bleach is rinsed out. Shampoo the hair 2-3 times using a deep cleansing / clarifying shampoo, we recommend using a Pre Colour Shampoo . Rinse well for 3-4 minutes after the last shampoo. DON'T USE CONDITIONER.
Dry: Completely dry hair using a hairdryer as this will help make the hair more porous.
Dye: Perform a Strand Test and proceed if you are happy with the results. Completely saturate the hair with dye and then gently massage and emulsify slowly to ensure even coverage, warning: lighter colours work best simply painted on with a tint brush, do not rub in. Cover hair with a plastic cap. Leave the dye on for at least 45 minutes, the longer the better! Pro Tip: Leave the dye on for several hours. Apply heat with a hair dryer for the last 10 mins of processing time, this will help open the cuticle and allow the dye to better penetrate the hair. 
Rinse: Rinse hair in cool water, DON'T USE SHAMPOO. The water won't run clear, but once you feel like most of the dye is out, apply conditioner to help close down the cuticles and lock in the dye.

Please read first - Do I need to pre-lighten my hair before colouring? 

For those wanting to dye natural virgin hair, we have provided some information as a guide. Remember, results will vary from person to person and there are no guarantees on outcome because the dyes are designed to work on pre-lightened hair. Always do a strand test before proceeding.

Firstly, select a colour that is highly pigmented. For hair that is level 3-7, these are recommended ...
Arctic Fox: Aquamarine, Blue Jean Baby, Purple Rain, Ritual Sunset Orange, Virgin Pink, Wrath
Crazy Color: Aubergine, Black, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cyclamen, Hot Purple, Natural Black, Peacock Blue, Pine Green, Ruby Rouge, Sapphire, Vermillion
Manic Panic: Deep Purple Dream, Enchanted Forst, Fuchsia Shock, Green Envy, Hot Hot Pink, Infra Red, Purple Haze, Raven, Rock'n'Roll Red, Vampire Red, Violet Night

HAIR COLOURING INSTRUCTIONS
SHAMPOO > DRY > DYE > RINSE IN COOL WATER all on the same day!
Shampoo: Shampoo the hair twice with a Pre Colour Shampoo . Rinse well for 3-4 mins after the last shampoo. DON'T USE CONDITIONER.
Dry: Completely dry hair using a hairdryer as this will help make the hair more porous.
Dye: Perform a Strand Test and proceed if you are happy with the results. Completely saturate the hair with dye and then gently massage to ensure even coverage. Cover hair with a plastic cap. Leave the colour on for at least 2 hours, the longer the better!
Rinse: Rinse hair in cool water, DON'T USE SHAMPOO. The water won't run clear, but once you feel like most of the dye is out, apply conditioner.

In order to achieve any pastel or lighter shades (ie. Manic Panic Creamtones), it is absolutely necessary to lighten and tone your hair first to an all-over even level 10 platinum white blonde.  Any residual tones in your hair can (and normally will) affect how well the colour shows up in your hair. Please keep in mind too that these colours generally contain less pigment than normal shades and will fade from your hair faster.

ALWAYS DO A TEST STRAND BEFORE PROCEEDING

- Don't wash your hair for at least 3 days after dyeing, the longer you can hold off the better
- Try not to wash your hair as much, 1-2 shampoos a week would be ideal, dry shampoo is your new bestie
- Wash hair with cold water, as cold as you can, warm water is your enemy
- Avoid certain shampoos and conditioners: anti-dandruff, deep cleansing, baby shampoos as they strip colour the most, it should be sulphate free and silicone free. Check out our shampoos and conditioners
- Add a little dye to your shampoo and conditioner to help freshen your colour.
- Turn the heat down on your styling tools
- Use non-alcohol based hair products
- Avoid too much direct sunlight
- Avoid swimming

Long Lasting Colour Using Vinegar Solution
A Pro trick for making your colour last longer is to rinse your hair with a vinegar solution immediately after you have rinsed the dye from your hair. This raises the pH level of the hair dye and gives it more permanence.

Directions: Put equal amounts of white vinegar or apple cider vinegar with water into a bottle and shake. Pour the vinegar rinse onto your hair, comb through and leave for 5 minutes. Rinse in cold water and condition your hair.

Simply do the opposite of the above Care and Maintenance. 

- Wash your hair as much as possible in hot water 
- Use shampoos such as anti-dandruff, deep cleansing or clarifying
- Crush up some Vitamin C powder in shampoo and wash your hair with the mixture
- Sprinkle a teaspoon of baking soda into your shampoo, gently knead it into your hair, then rinse with warm water

Last Resort Soap Cap ... When all else fails here is a trick that will remove that last bit of unwanted dye. It is always best to seek out the advice from a professional hair salon rather than doing it yourself.

Mix in a colour bowl:
3 Tbs Developer
2 Tbs Lightener/Bleach
2 Tbs clarifying shampoo
2 Tbs conditioner for dry hair

Directions:
1. Put a pair of colouring gloves on
2. Apply the mixture to wet hair, it should only be used to remove unwanted dye, try not to get it on your natural virgin hair.
3. Work quickly and begin kneading the mixture into your hair starting from the ends to your roots
4. Work mixture into hair for 5-10 minutes
5. Rinse mixture out with warm water
6. Shampoo and deep condition

** Remember to check hair frequently; while a “Soap Cap” is diluted a person’s hair is most fragile when wet and the processing time can vary from person to person. It’s always best to seek out a professional hair stylist for colour removal**

Yes, but ONLY the new regrowth! 

Bleaching hair that has already been bleached won't help the colour be brighter or last longer, it will only cause unnecessary damage. If anything colour will fade faster on over bleached damaged hair because the outer cuticle will become too damaged to hold colour. For hair that has already been bleached, we recommend using a pre dye shampoo to help prepare your hair before colouring.